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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:12 pm 
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I don't see where the EP4000 has a built in crossover.
I would run from the mixer to the JBL Sub first, set the sub outputs A & B to HPF, then run from the outputs of the sub to the EB4000 inputs, to the EV cabs.
This will give your tops the exact frequency cutoff the subs stop at.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:55 pm 
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Lonnie

You're right, I think its the EPX series the newer, lighter ones with the switching technology that have a built in crossover.

Do you think what you're suggesting would be the best way to do this? Or would you recommend a different amplifier or an additional crossover?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:18 pm 
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I would do one of two things:

* use the built-in crossover in your JRX118SP to feed the top amplifier
or
* get an outboard crossover and place it between the mixer and anything else, in which case you want to disengage the JRX built-in processing, if possible; otherwise it will add phase error

The DriveRack PA is easy to use, inexpensive, and really nice if you have different speaker setups. You can just turn the dial from preset 1 "2 TOPS 1 SUB" to another preset "4 TOPS 2 SUB" or whatever, depending on what speakers you decide to use at each job. Just make a preset for each combination using the wizard.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:11 pm 
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The EPX3000 puts out enough power to run 3 speakers per channel, two mains and a small sub per channel. Theoretically it could run four 8 ohm speakers per channel@2ohms. It has a built in crossover, so you can run in mono and power 2 or 3 mains off one side and a pair of 8 ohm subs off the other side. It puts out plenty of power to run a pair of SX300 speakers-around 500wpc@8ohms, 900wpc@4ohms and rated at 1500wpc@2ohms. It's also able to be run in bridge mode- rated @3000wpc@4ohms. It also has built in limiters. Compare it to a QSC or Crown or Crest and see what you can buy from those companies for $369.

Saturday at a wedding I ran my pair of EV Sx300 speakers and a pair of EV Sb122 subs off an old Radio Shack Optimus 250 amp with no distortion, no clipping and no overheating. It sounded great and I could crank it louder than anyone wanted to hear the music in a 4000 sq ft room with 150+ people. If I can do that with an old underpowered amp, imagine what you can do with twice the power using an EPX3000. I ran both SX300s off one channel in mono at a gig on Sunday-no subs. Zero problems and again capable of playing way louder than anyone would want to listen to the music-in a 3000 sq ft room with 75 people. EV speakers can run on very little power.

I wouldn't advise running power hungry speakers like Peaveys or JBLs with the EPX3000, but more efficient speakers like EVs and some others will work great with the EPX3000. I've been considering one for quite some time and have held off waiting to hear about the new Peavey IPR3000 which is comparable and weighs only about 8 pounds and about the same price. The Peavey IPR also has a built in crossover.

The Behringer EPX3000 is a QSC PLX3102 knockoff as far as power rating and weight, I don't know about the internal components. The PLX 3102 goes for around $1,100.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:15 am 
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vtrod @ Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:55 pm wrote:
Lonnie

You're right, I think its the EPX series the newer, lighter ones with the switching technology that have a built in crossover.

Do you think what you're suggesting would be the best way to do this? Or would you recommend a different amplifier or an additional crossover?

Thanks

Victor

Running through the subs built in crossover would alleviate you from having to add one now (extra expense if that might be an issue). Give it a shot first, then if you don't like that sound, get a nice external crossover like suggested.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:48 am 
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Lonman @ Wed Jan 27, 2010 5:15 am wrote:
vtrod @ Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:55 pm wrote:
Lonnie

You're right, I think its the EPX series the newer, lighter ones with the switching technology that have a built in crossover.

Do you think what you're suggesting would be the best way to do this? Or would you recommend a different amplifier or an additional crossover?

Thanks

Victor

Running through the subs built in crossover would alleviate you from having to add one now (extra expense if that might be an issue). Give it a shot first, then if you don't like that sound, get a nice external crossover like suggested.


When I use my subs (which is not very often) this is how typically do it. I have the Mackie SRS-1500's so they're active. I just run the signal through them first then take the high-pass out and send that to my amplifier for the passive top end cabs.

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